108 Portraits of Indian Textiles

108 Portraits of Indian Textiles
Indian textiles have a long, rich and layered history, from weaves of the Indus Valley Civilization—as seen in the shawl draped across the bearded priest king—to sacred painted cloths of religious icons. Not just Dhaka muslins, prized in ancient Greece and Rome, other Indian textiles too reached royal courts across the world. Hand-block printing, ajrak, tie-and dye, phulkari and kantha embroidery, intricate techniques of chanderi, kalamkari, jamdani, ikat weaves, chintz, paisley and floral motifs, Kashmiri carpets and cashmere shawls, among others, present an exciting journey in the mapping of Indian textiles.

In this fascinating exploration into the complex warp and weft of India, the author also delineates costume styles. From premodern times when men and women were draped in three pieces of unstitched fabrics, the book traces cross-cultural influences of the medieval period, particularly Central Asian, which introduced the stitched trouser, upper garment and drape. The modern period included further influences from colonizers: the British, French, Dutch and Portuguese.

In contemporary India, while fashion designers started noting global trends, traditional textiles and weaves are often incorporated and have a following among connoisseurs, while the draped saree and current interpretations of the three-piece outfit still hold their own. The author draws attention to the finer points of draped clothing and the stitched costumes of stylish chooridars and Mughal angrakhas, luxurious silks and cottons, natural pigments and dyes, brocades and zardozi, complemented with a finely curated selection of visuals of ancient sculptures, paintings and textiles.